Chhath

Chhath is dedicated to Surya, the sun god, and Chhathi Maiya. It is the most important festival for Maithil, Bhojpuri and many other Madhesi families, and has spread with them to Kathmandu and beyond.

Four days

Day one, Nahay-Khay, begins with a ritual bath and a pure meal. Day two, Kharna, ends a day-long fast with rice pudding made with jaggery. Then begins a fast without food or water. On the third evening, devotees wade into rivers and ponds to offer arghya to the setting sun; before dawn on the fourth day they return to greet the rising sun, and then break the fast.

The scene

Ghats are cleaned and decorated for days. At dusk thousands of families line the water with baskets of thekua, fruit and sugarcane, lamps floating on the water and women singing Chhath songs. It is one of the most beautiful sights in Nepal — and one of the most photographed.

For visitors

Go to Gangasagar in Janakpur or Ghadiarwa Pokhari in Birgunj, arrive early, stay behind the devotees and ask before taking close-up photographs.